Heading back to the future

Yorkshire Post 31st December 2011

Homes and Interiors

CURIOSITY: Shagreen is once more in vogue. Interior Designer Jamie Hempsall looks at the history of this surprising material.

Shagreen has been used for both decorative and practical purposes for Centuries, rising and falling in popularity over that time. Many people will have encountered it in antique shops where they will see examples of it covering small luxury items such as boxes, opera glasses and picture frames.

It is a very distinctive finish where the surface is covered in small nodules. The material readily accepts die and forms a beautiful contrast across the surface between nodules and grain.

Many people assume that this hardwearing surface is leather, but in fact real shagreen is fashioned from the skin of the stingray, which has a smoothly pebbled texture.

There has been controversy over the use of the material in the past; however, modern real shagreen should now be manufactured from a specific family of the ray that is commonly eaten throughout South East Asia. The species Dasyatis Bleekeri and Dasyatis Stephan carry no CITES or other restrictions meaning that they are not a threatened species in South East Asian Waters. The skins are a by-product of the fishing industry and used to be thrown away (with fishermen only saving some to use as a sandpaper alternative – such is the strength of the untreated skin).

Faux shagreen has in the past been manufactured in paper, but these days there are flexible resin products that are cast to look like the actual product. One of the advantages of a resin alternative is that it shares the tough properties of the original, but is available in much larger lengths than an individual skin which means it is easier to use where larger quantities might be needed (for instance if covering a piece of furniture).

Shagreen has always been highly prized and associated with luxurious finishes and objects. Earliest civilisations believed the stingray brought strength and power to any who handled it and the backbone, which resembles clusters of white pearls, was thought to be a protector of good luck and prosperity.

The Egyptians prized the beauty and durability of the stingray skin, which they used to fashion armour and decorative items. In the Middle Ages Samurai armour and particularly sword handles were made from undyed and untreated shagreen where its rough and granular surface made it an ideal material.

The first examples of shagreen-covered objects being imported into Europe appear during the 17th and 18th Centuries. At this time Shagreen was popularised by the tanner Jean-Claude Galluchat, who began manufacturing small items such as wig cases and snuff boxes items for the court of Louis XV. Louise XV's most famous mistress, Madame de Pompadour, was reported to be such an enthusiast that a week rarely went by when she did not purchase some new object from Mr. Galluchat.

Shagreen's popularity reached a pinnacle in the Art Deco era when it was used in both small objects and furniture by the likes of Emile-Jacques Ruhlmann and Jean-Michel Frank. Both men were extremely influential in the field of interiors at that time and specialised in creating beautiful worlds for the beautiful people of the age.

The impact of the Second World War meant that tastes changed dramatically and shagreen fell out of favour for several decades. It only regained popularity again in the 1970s; reputedly due to the influence of Karl Springer, a designer of exotic furniture favoured by the Duchess of Windsor.

Provided it is antique, ethically sourced or faux it is also potentially an attractive finish to use in your interior, whether it is introduced as a small objet (such as a small antique bedside clock) or as a statement piece such as a lamp or piece of furniture.

Simon Orrell is a Fulham Based furniture designer who specialises in working with materials such as shagreen and parchment. He takes great pride in ensuring the ethical credentials of the material that he uses in his products and loves the challenge of working with such an intricate and tricky material to produce dramatic results.

He is one of a handful of highly specialised craftsmen working in the modern era with shagreen. Simon says his clients find the draw of the material is " its very tactile nature and exotic appeal". His new range of homewares features lamps, mirrors and objects that use shagreen to stunning effect (www.simonorrelldesigns.com).

Picking up on the trend, Phillips & Wood have also just introduced a new range of door handles that feature shagreen in dark green or cream set in brass, ideal for introducing a hint of luxury, from £160 (www.phillipsandwood.co.uk - 020 8222 8117).

If you like the appearance of shagreen, but prefer a different price tag, then there are still ways to include it in your home. Julian Chicester feature the Rene Range of bedroom furniture finished in resin faux shagreen with simple contemporary lines which still hint at art deco glamour (www.julianchicester.com - 0207 622 2928). Alternatively, if you fancy lounging in luxury, the Dragon fabric from Lorca gives a wonderful shagreen effect perfect for cushions or drapes (£93 per metre; www.osborneandlittle.com - 020 7352 1456).

This is a texture that we have seen plenty of in the past and are definitely likely to see more of in the future.

Jamie Hempsall, BIID, is a multi-award winning interior designer. Visit him at www.jamiehempsall.com or call 0800 032 1180.